Archive for the Augustine Martin & Company Category

Blue Velvet Bustle for Grace

Posted in 19th cent., Augustine Martin & Company, Fashion-art on May 12, 2010 by babylonbaroque

From what I understand the Costume Institute at the Met has received a huge boon in that the Brooklyn Museum is relinquishing it’s sizable collection of high fashion. Many new pieces will be added to their own impressive holdings.

Fashion, in how it controls the body, creates a desired form, and the power and language of fashion is of great interest to me. The following dress, though delightful to behold would have driven any clear thinking Bloomer -wearing Suffragette mad.

This particular dress, is an example of the bustle at it’s most extreme. First appearing in the 60’s it eventually morphed into the iconic “shelf” silhouette.

Afternoon dress

Silk

Augustine Martin

French

1885

Another piece by the Augustine Martin & company, also formerly at the Brooklyn Museum, is the puffed sleeve jacket. It too would have appeared unrelentingly confining to a Suffragette.

Jacket

silk, jet, beads

1895

I’m crazy for the extreme  silhouettes  that were achieved, but then again I didn’t have to wear it.

Given how my niece cannot handle being bundled into winter garb, she will  most likely sympathize with the Costume Reformers.

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