Sarah Bejeweled
My intention has been to post a simple little article on the Divine Sarah.
With Sarah Bernhardt it AIN’T that easy.
Divine Sarah as the Empress of Byzantium Théodora by Sardou
I was a pissy little homo- boy, my mother dismissed my histrionic fits by telling me to “stop acting like Sarah Bernhardt”.
I hadn’t a clue as to what she was referring to, I do now.
Sarah is eternally fascinating. As I cannot possibly tackle the Goddess in one little modest post, perhaps chapters would be best.
As I like shiny things, and Sarah liked shiny things lets begin with jewels.
We all know the quite fabulous Dragonfly corsage , so let us start with it.
Dragonfly corsage
Lalique 1897-1898
gold, enamel, chrysoprase stones, moonstones .
I have read that this perverse little creature owned by Sarah’s friend, Calouste Gulbenkian, was a portrait sculpture of Bernhardt. I don’t see a resemblance, but it is of course quite extraordinary.
Calouste lent this jaw dropper only once to dear Sarah, but we are still talking about it.
The man had fine taste, plus he was rather cute.
In addition to this bit of magnificence, he was a fine patron to Lalique. I must post more in a future date, but I cannot resist the siren call of this piece.
Serpents pectoral
ca. 1898-1899
gold and enamel
Museo Calouste Gulbenkian
Lalique wasn’t the only horse in Sarah’s bejeweled stable. Georges Fouquet and Alphonse Mucha produced this dazzling wonder.
Snake Bracelet
ca. 1899
gold, diamonds, opals , rubies, and enamel
Alphonse Mucha Museum
Sakai City, Japan
As the opal is Sarah’s birthstone, the Snake Bracelet is particularly fitting.
It’s Orientalist mystique is by way of a larger snake that wraps round her wrist, Snake -1 linked to ring -Snake- 2 by a delicate series of chains. Flexibility is provided by discreet hinges from behind. a mechanical bit of genius that even I can appreciate.
In addition to designing Sarah’s jewels, Mucha of course famously designed posters for many of her performances. this poster of 1898, depicts the divine one as Medea, in the production of Médée performed at the Theatre de la Renaissance.
The Snake Bracelet quite visible, in addition to the bloody knife.
Georges Fouquet and Alphonse Mucha collaborated on other pieces, this pendant will drive you mad.
Brooch
ca. 1900
Georges Fouquet and Alphonse Mucha
gold, enamel, mother of pearl, emerald, colored stone, gold paint
Metropolitan Museum of Art
Clearly dear Mucha relished being Sarah’s lap dog.
Mucha went on to design more for Sarah, jewels and posters most specifically.
When Miss Bernhardt was performing La Princesse Lointaine at the Renaissance Theatre in 1895, Mucha designed this magnificent tiara for her.
Diadem for La Princesse Lointaine
ca. 1895
Musée et Bibliothèque de l’Opera
Paris
Reutlinger Studio (1850-1930)
ca. 1895
Harvard Theatre Collection
As Sarah had great control of her image, she was involved on every level. This jeweled collar for her role s Cleopatra reflect this attention to detail.
Pectoral for Cléopâtre
ca. 1840
metal, pearls, beads, sequins, gold thread
Bibliothèque Nationale de France
It’s quite clear dear Sarah enjoyed her glamour, her image, her presence.
Even her mirror bore her imprint, her motto Quand même (even so).
Standing Mirror
ca. 1875
Edouard Lièvre
Ariadante, Paris
ca. 1891
In closing I may never tire of Sarah, I thank my mother for the intro.
Always eager to throw in beefcake, we have the Divine and the Elegant Brute, the always hot George Sandow.
Good Night
September 30, 2010 at 1:30 am
A ‘Divine’ posting in more ways than one, as per usual. Thanks very much for a great and informative article that was dripping with gorgeous illustrations.
September 30, 2010 at 1:19 pm
Well thank you sir, divine inspiration
September 30, 2010 at 2:54 am
I thank my grandmother for my rather tame introduction to her. And, i thank you for this colorful and educational post. Fabulous jewels and photoographs….I had never seen.
Please, more on Sarah. She must have been quite a creature to inspire such artistic endeavors.
September 30, 2010 at 1:22 pm
My mother who introduced me to Sarah meant it as a disparagement to compare my rants to Bernhardt. My mother was quite incorrect, I would enjoy any comparison to her greatness.
She was a great muse , then and now, I find her incredibly enchanting.
Thank you for checking in,
September 30, 2010 at 6:53 am
I adore Sarah… I even paid homage to a photo of her that I love in one of my tintype photos.
Hers: http://wilsonsalmanac.blogspot.com/uploaded_images/bernhardt3-735784.jpg
Mine: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ESzBfFEnB_s/RpbSgIqgUXI/AAAAAAAAA_o/4G8MOLFbhTQ/s320/667679.jpg
Which makes me think that I should organize a field trip to the wet plate photographer! Do you want to tag along?
September 30, 2010 at 1:23 pm
I knew i liked you!
You are amazing, the images beautiful.
And YES, would love to tag along,
LG
September 30, 2010 at 1:28 pm
BTW, I am familiar with that image of the “crucified” Sarah, I like your image more.
The cross disturbs me, and I’m a Catholic!
Thanks for sharing, i want to do post on you, your work/art, your music, your images.
Will be eager to discuss with you,
LG
October 6, 2010 at 8:45 am
[...] I mentioned in my previous Sarah Bernhardt post , Calouste Gulbenkian (dragonfly pendant fame) was an important patron of Lalique’s [...]
November 30, 2010 at 8:00 am
Cool topic. I often need to read as much about this as I can.
November 30, 2010 at 1:08 pm
Super, I’m glad you enjoyed it. I have another post you may find of interest, pop back soon
Babylon Baroque
January 20, 2011 at 6:10 am
Thanks so much for your research and the fabulous photos. I too was a young “Sarah Heartburn” to my parents, but only recently learned why she is still such a boldface name…
January 20, 2011 at 2:58 pm
Love that! Unfortunately my parents were not nearly clever enough to call me Sarah Heartburn, would have tickled me beyond measure!
Thanks,
Leonard